1.3 bar upgrade?

[Shepdogg]

just a few things i want clearing up before i proceed with this venture

Details of car:

EVO IV GSR

Blitz Induction - Tein Coilovers - Recirc - Hks Super Dragger System with decat - running standard ecu @ 1 bar

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Now from what i understand i need the folowing upgrades to run 1.3 (correct me if im wrong)

Walbro fuel pump

Dawes Boost Controller

Ralli//art ecu off a 5/6 (apperently the wire that goes the the altanator needs snipping?)

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Is this all i will need to run 1.3 bar safely on stock interals or should i be aware of other things eg, injectors / fuel reg?

+ will i need to have the car set up at a local sepcialists as well, once all the modifications are complete?

Thanks

Chris

[BIGC]

Well mate you'll get lots of opinions on this one but imo you don't need the ecu as yours will happily fuel that boost your on the standard fuel pumps peak at 1.3 bar it will fuel it but if you intend on going any higher at all you will defo have to change it.. When you set the dawes up you will find that 1.3bar in say 2nd or 3rd will increase in 4th and 5th so i recommend you set it to 1.3 bar in fourth therefore you won't get that jump. I have a powertek boost controller on my evo6 a blitz nur spec r De-cat and 3" downpipe along with blitz sonic power filter.. and mine will run 1.3 all day long.... hope you don't launch too much though as clutch will need to be upgraded...Let me know how you get on pal. :-)

[Shepdogg]

cheers for the reply

i dont lauch the car ever as i have already lost a clutch and flywheel do to that so i upgraded to the evo 6 exeddy clutch and flywheel, so basically i can just turn the actuator 1 turn and set it via the dawes boost controller in 4th / 5th to 1.3 bar and it should all be ok and safe?

Craig, dont want to disagree mate but Emmas has a lovely cut at 1.3

[Lord Mike]

in my past experience the IV has the wekest engine and running 1.3 bar it wont be long before the engine gives up. Ask RSE to put an evo VII engine in far more superior engine and with love and RSE know how you would be able to run 1.6 bar. why have cotton when you can have silk.

[RSE MOTORSPORT]

Originally Posted by bigc

Well mate you'll get lots of opinions on this one but imo you don't need the ecu as yours will happily fuel that boost your on the standard fuel pumps peak at 1.3 bar it will fuel it but if you intend on going any higher at all you will defo have to change it.. When you set the dawes up you will find that 1.3bar in say 2nd or 3rd will increase in 4th and 5th so i recommend you set it to 1.3 bar in fourth therefore you won't get that jump. I have a powertek boost controller on my evo6 a blitz nur spec r De-cat and 3" downpipe along with blitz sonic power filter.. and mine will run 1.3 all day long.... hope you don't launch too much though as clutch will need to be upgraded...Let me know how you get on pal. :-)

As its been mentioned already I would definately forget pushing it past 1.1 bar TBH Chris :???: I will double check when Andy gets in but IIRC 1.1 max is the safest setting....but i'll let you know as soon as Andy gets back

Craig hun if you are pushing out 1.3 bar atm then your engine is on the limit of fuel cut hun, fuel cut on the VI is around 1.2 bar also

Its ok running the engines at max all the time but all you are doing is asking for a big bill when something goes wrong.....is that 0.1 bar really worth it? :???:

[Shepdogg]

so basically i can run 1.2 bar and just buy a dawes boost controller and all will be ok tina? :woohoo:

[BIGC]

Well actually the proper evo 4 ecu fuel cuts at 1.6-1.7 bar if it's the original.. I have put out 1.3bar in 4th and 1.4 in fifth that's why i recommend setting as a maximum in 4th so that in the lower gears it will be holding roughly 1.15 -1.2 and peaking in higher gears.... Forgot to tell ya i have a remapped japanese ecu imported by local specialist.. 1.3 bar is part of the stage 2 evo upgrade and i would assume that as long as its set as i said it will be A ok.. the end of the day you won't be driving at full bore in 4th and 5th all day long every day therefore you'll only be running 0.1-0.2 bar difference than standard anyway.. best thing to do is have a diagnostic dyno run each stage of the way as i have done and have the general health of your engine checked i.e compression leak test...

P.S. WHOOSH WEREN'T YOU KNOWN TO RUN IN EXCESS OF 400BHP ON STD INTERNALS????????????? :-) :-)

[RSE MOTORSPORT]

Originally Posted by bigc

Well actually the proper evo 4 ecu fuel cuts at 1.6-1.7 bar if it's the original.. I have put out 1.3bar in 4th and 1.4 in fifth that's why i recommend setting as a maximum in 4th so that in the lower gears it will be holding roughly 1.15 -1.2 and peaking in higher gears.... Forgot to tell ya i have a remapped japanese ecu imported by local specialist.. 1.3 bar is part of the stage 2 evo upgrade and i would assume that as long as its set as i said it will be A ok.. the end of the day you won't be driving at full bore in 4th and 5th all day long every day therefore you'll only be running 0.1-0.2 bar difference than standard anyway.. best thing to do is have a diagnostic dyno run each stage of the way as i have done and have the general health of your engine checked i.e compression leak test...

P.S. WHOOSH WEREN'T YOU KNOWN TO RUN IN EXCESS OF 400BHP ON STD INTERNALS????????????? :-) :-)

What do you mean by "proper" ecu Craig?

If you run a IV at 1.6 - 1.7 bar you are just asking for trouble :shock: :shock:

Where did you get that info???

Originally Posted by bigc

Well actually the proper evo 4 ecu fuel cuts at 1.6-1.7 bar if it's the original

Ehh?? you sure about that Craig?? That's a new one on me mate. Emmas ECU is an original IV and it cuts 1.3!!! :shock:

You would NEVER run 1.6 bar on a standard IV! Suicide springs to mind, not so much crank walk as crank sprint

Originally Posted by bigc

P.S. WHOOSH WEREN'T YOU KNOWN TO RUN IN EXCESS OF 400BHP ON STD INTERNALS????????????? :-) :-)

:shock:

Yep but I have a VI not a IV and there are now people out there with 450+ with just ARP bolts